Still, Washington, DC-based board-certified dermatologist Adam Friedman, MD, who recently co-authored a study on peptides in skin care, notes that prevention is key. He thinks that people even younger can start adding peptides into their routine if they feel called to. “There is sufficient data with respect to the decline in collagen, even within your mid-twenties,” he explains, adding that peptides shouldn’t be used in isolation without skin protectors like sunscreen that will really do the legwork of protecting your skin against wrinkles long-term.
Can you layer peptide creams with other AHAs and retinol?
Peptides are naturally found in the skin, and Dr. Kim notes they should be gentle enough to use in concert with other ingredients like retinol and AHAs, or as a skin-soothing stand-in on days you’re not using AHAs and retinols but want to keep up an effective skin-boosting routine throughout the week.
Dr. Friedman is more hesitant on that front, noting that he would avoid pairing retinol with peptides at the same time, and instead would space them out. If you have especially sensitive skin, one way to determine your limits is test-patching a peptide moisturizer over a retinol serum or after using an AHA face wash, for example, for potential irritation. And keep in mind that other ingredients included in a peptide moisturizer can also contribute to skin irritation, as well.
How should a person shop for peptide moisturizers?
For any kind of skin-care product, Dr. Kim says to keep in mind what works for your individual skin type and sensitivities (whether that’s a texture preference or a certain base) above all, rather than just obsessing over ingredient lists.
Generally, the dermatologists we surveyed for this story also suggested peptide serums over thicker moisturizers, though Dr. Henry noted that both are helpful. “If you’re looking to see the biggest change, a serum is going to give you the most concentrated version of a peptide treatment,” she explains since they include higher concentrations of active ingredients than creams.
Are there any notable peptides to look out for?
Peptides aren’t as straightforward to spot in an ingredient lineup as something like glycerin or hyaluronic acid since there are so many different kinds out there that perform different functions. However, there are a few with skin-smoothing benefits worth looking out for. Dr. Kim calls out Matrixyl 3000 and copper tripeptides as two of the most well-studied types of peptides out there. “There’s a lot of research out there on how [Matrixyl 3000, a combination of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7,] boosts collagen production,” Dr. Kim says, adding that manufacturer studies have shown a reduction in wrinkles and more elastic skin among participants who have used the peptide topically twice a day over at least two months. “It’s not going to erase your fine lines and wrinkles, but it will soften them,” Kim explains.