Jeroboam YOUR OUDHNESS is exclusive to Harrods, London
Your Oudhness is the latest perfume to be released for Jovoy Paris impresario, Francois Henin’s Jeroboam brand. Presented exclusively in a sleek, 100ml gold flacon, it’s currently only available in Harrods and – like every other Jeroboam perfume to date – it’s composed by Paris based perfumer Vanina Muracciole. What I’ve personally always found remarkable about both the brand and the perfumer is the way their perfumes are strong without being overtly heavy – a core idea which goes back to the conception of the brand. The story goes that Muracciole constructed a perfume of musk notes to illustrate to Henin just how vivid and vital that genre of raw materials can be. That perfume itself became the brand’s dynamic juniper tinged Origino and that same trademark ball of “enigmatic musk” energy has underpinned every release since.
Vanina Muracciole and Francois Henin at the launch event of Your Oudhness at Harrods (Oct 2024)
Obviously the process is not as simple as adding a couple of hero ingredients and a smattering of supporting notes to that trademark musk structure but Muracciole has consistently worked to maintain this incredibly well toned, quasi-weightless style of perfumery. Granted, her Jeroboam compositions are served in strong, 20%+ concentrations but they often perform in a polite beast mode. Yes, they’re loud and incredibly diffusive but for extrait strength perfumes they rarely feel oppressive or over complicated. Both the brand and the perfumer display a real and present knack for being direct.
Francois Henin at Harrod’s with customers
As such. Jeroboam Your Oudhness is a very accessible oud-focused perfume that immediately delivers the defining facets of the Vietnamese oud used. It’s backed up by a unique essence of aetoxylon wood called Gaharu Buaya, a species of tree which only grows in the mangroves of Borneo. Sometimes called Crocodile Wood (‘buaya’ means crocodile in Indonesian) it’s said to have a salty, marine facet to it alongside the peppery tones of guaiac wood and a slight ember of smoke, but in combination with the Vietnamese oud, it seems to add a very cedarwood-style width as well as a uniquely mineral kind of intrigue.
Jeroboam YOUR OUDHNESS
Jeroboam Your Oudhness jagged opening of spicy, sharp, unruly woods and patchouli facets is made thick with musks and a touch of vanilla. A warm saffron note provides the perfume with that familiar, spicy, arid kind of tone that characterizes a lot of mainstream, oud forward fragrances, but what’s really neat is the body of the fragrance. Modern perfumery linchpins like iso e super and methyl ionone gamma give the drydown a molecular sheen that offers a polished familiarity while unifying what I can only imagine to be the temperamental tendrils of the chosen natural materials.
Tackling the Eastern penchant for complex ouds with Muriaccole’s style of olfactive levity gives Jeroboam Your Oudhness quite a welcome, easy-going quality – which is fantastic considering how striking the oud and aetoxylon combo itself is: smelling something like two parts buttery pencil lead, one part saffron, one part damp moss and one-part fractionated patchouli. The perfume bears a slight similarity to Jeroboam’s Ligno in the way that it pulls no punches and is just full of unrelenting interesting wood smells from the get go, but Your Oudhness manages ably to shift itself into this deluxe gloss of muted woody tones that feels super contemporary and classically luxuriant at the same time.
Notes: Bergamot, Saffron, Elemi, Styrax, Oudh Vietnam, Buaya Gaharu wood, Leather, Sandalwood, Patchouli, White Musk, Vanilla, Cedarwood, Oakmoss
Disclaimer: A sample of Jeroboam Your Oudhness was provided by the brand.
–Oli Marlow, Contributor
All photos courtesy of Jeroboam Parfums
Available exclusively at Harrod’s
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