Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu
Artisanal natural perfumer Mandy Aftel has been gracing us with her aromatic oeuvres for almost 30 years. She has been, and continues to be a pioneer, mentor, and educator to all and sundry. The accolades and awards she has received over the years are mind-boggling, from the Art and Olfaction Septimus Piesse Visionary Award for lifetime achievement in 2022 to her three FiFi finalist showings, and a Perfumed Plume for her Secret Life of Scent in 2016, amongst the praise she has received from the New York Times, Vogue, Town and Country, and Vanity Fair. Mandy has authored six books to date about perfume and flavor, the most recent being her Museum of Scent: Exploring the Curious and Wondrous World of Fragrance, which I reviewed nearly a year ago. Her latest perfume is charmingly named Sacré Bleu, a cheeky nod to the expression Sacrebleu!, a minced oath/exclamation of amazement invoked to avoid blasphemy (Holy G-d!).
Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes
Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu (Holy Blue!) revolves around the precious blue lotus (nymphaea caerulea, Egyptian blue lotus): a legendary material beloved by the ancients for thousands of years in the practice of traditional medicine for its multiple health benefits. It has been known to produce the following effects: relaxation, stress relief, focused euphoria, as an hypnotic (sleep aid), aphrodisiac (to improve sexual performance), mood enhancer, and to induce lucid dreaming. Whether it is inhaled or taken internally as a tea, blue lotus is acknowledged to be psychoactive and may produce hallucinations. In current usage, it is often inhaled via vaping, smoking, tincture, or as a tea.
Blue Lotus Illustration by Mandy Aftel
In ancient Egypt, the blue lotus was revered for its unique blooming patterns: it opens at dawn, follows the arc of the sun, and closes at dusk, which is why it was considered a symbol of rebirth – closely associated with Ra (the Sun God) and Osiris (the goddess of the Underworld). The blue lotus is actually a water lily, and figures prominently in the cultures of the Ancient Egyptians, Chinese, Japanese, Indians, Buddhists, and Greeks. This aquatic bloom symbolizes wisdom, knowledge, and the victory of the spirit over the senses: it is associated with purity and enlightenment because it emerges unsullied from muddy waters, mirroring the human soul’s journey toward spiritual consciousness. All of these factors achieve summation in the choice of two little words: sacré bleu.
100 year old Bottle of Antique Sandalwood which was used in Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu
Mandy has been collecting rare and antique absolutes and oils for many years, and it’s a joy to experience them in her formulae. Many years ago, I was speechless when she sent me a flacon of then-100-year-old patchouli (evocative of Homer’s wine-dark sea!), and a generous sample of boronia. It felt as if they were illicit substances, they were so potent and hypnotic. During that time, another perfumer had sent me one ml. of blue lotus absolute, in order to further my olfactory education. The effect of such rare beauties cannot be overestimated: it was revelatory, illuminating parts of the brain which must have lain dormant for some time. One comes to believe in the holiness inherent in venerable antique Mysore sandalwood and the prohibitively costly blue lotus – and why they were believed to possess mythical powers.
Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu is supremely meditative by virtue of its exceptional components, let alone the intricate tapestry which is woven from a modicum of sublime fragrant personae. I emphasize this because in comparison to most perfume receipts these days (which tend to be quite lengthy), Mandy’s listings are quite modest. That’s the magic of wisdom, alchemy, and an unwillingness to compromise quality. What could be more silken, creamy, than the finest sandalwood available (or scarcely available, in this particular case)? There is a distinctly mesmerising, narcotic appeal to Antipodean boronia, with its champaca-redolent rich tenacity: outrageously complex, it wafts so many facets – tea, gentle tobacco and cinnamon tones, as well as fresh, green, and sweet, juicy fruit. A voluptuous olfactory material, it recalls the high-quality floral incenses one is likely to find in India. To pair it with mimosa feels instinctively natural: spicy, honeyed, waxy, and reminiscent of hay. Blue lotus? It’s extremely heady, sweet (in the manner of Parma violet), and also somewhat waxy, fatty in the best possible way. Its limpid, aquatic nuances become apparent in the drydown. Blue lotus presents itself as a liquid; it is viscous and not the easiest material with which to work – with an average price point (for 100 Gms goes of €2,684.00 – for 3.53 oz. Small wonder that is hasn’t been smelt on a wider scale.
When first applied to the flesh, Sacré Bleu exhibits a sharp, honeyed aspect with notes of overripe apricot. Its aromatic companion boronia is no lightweight either: together they comprise a formidable couple steeped in erotic overtones. The inclusion of methyl anthranilate is known for its ability to flesh out orange blossom, tuberose, and jasmine fragrances – but contributes its noteworthy grape-like odor to Sacré Bleu’s mystique and sense of heightened indigo hue. Beta ionone is the sweetest of the ionones (often found in henna, petunia, osmanthus, boronia, and violet perfumes); it bestows woody, berry-like, fruity, floral, orris, tropical and beeswax notes to the overall composition. The black tea provides a delicately smoky earthiness which is grounding and astringent, making it a welcome addition to Boronia fragrances in general; and ambergris invokes subtle aquatic characteristics, while ameliorating everything in its path. I’m certain that Mandy and I would agree: there are no current aroma chemicals which even come close to it, no matter how lovely they may be. Once again, ambergris is not a bon marché material – but it is worth every cent. When one considers all the angles, it is apparent that Aftelier Sacré Bleu has earned its lofty status. Uniquely riveting in its own right, this fragrance is an homage to the hallowed.
Notes: antique Mysore sandalwood, blue lotus, ambergris, boronia, black tea, mimosa, beta ionone, methyl anthranilate
Sample kindly provided by the perfumer – many thanks! My nose is my own…
all photos courtesy of Aftelier Perfumes
Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu mini
Thanks to the generosity of perfumer Mandy Aftel, we have one mini bottle of Aftelier Perfumes Sacré Bleu for one registered reader worldwide. The giveaway is for registered readers only, so be sure to register if you have not done so. To be eligible please let us know what appealed to you in Ida’s review, where you live and your favorite Aftelier Perfumes fragrance. Draw closes 11/9/2024
Mandy Aftel received a ÇaFleureBon Best of Scent in the Hall of Fame category from Michelyn in 2021, 2023 Best Natural Perfumer and Best Book, as did Ida for The Museum of Scents – Exploring the Curious & Wondrous World Of Fragrances. Ida awarded Aftelier Perfumes Joie de Vert a ÇaFleureBon Top 10 perfume of 2021. Cepes and Tuberose is a ÇaFleureBon Modern Masterpiece. Please read Ermano’s article here
Please read Michelyn’s interview with Mandy Aftel here
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